Architecture

Paul R. Williams in Los Angeles

The architect who shaped more of this city's houses and civic buildings than any contemporary, and the documented record of where that work stands.

Paul Revere Williams was born in Los Angeles in 1894 and orphaned before he was five. He was licensed to practise architecture in California in 1921 and opened his own office two years later. Across roughly five decades he was involved in something approaching three thousand projects, the figure used by the Getty Research Institute and USC when they jointly acquired his archive in 2020. The great majority of that work sits inside Los Angeles County. If you have driven Wilshire Boulevard, walked into the Beverly Hills Hotel, or slowed down for a house in Hancock Park, you have almost certainly looked at something he drew.

What makes Williams unusual among architects of his generation is range rather than signature. He worked in Georgian, Tudor, French Regency, Spanish Colonial Revival, Hollywood Regency and, later, in a restrained modernism. He designed federal housing, a courthouse, churches, a funeral home, an insurance headquarters, a YMCA and hotel wings, and he did it while also building estates for film stars and industrialists. A Paul Williams house is rarely identifiable by a motif. It is identifiable by proportion, by the handling of a stair, by the way a plan gives a modest lot the manners of a larger one.

This page is a reference, not a sales sheet. Attributions to Williams circulate widely in Los Angeles and a meaningful share of them cannot be documented. Everything named here is drawn from the Paul R. Williams Project, the Los Angeles Conservancy, National Register and Historic-Cultural Monument records, the National Trust for Historic Preservation and the Getty. Where sources disagree on a date, the disagreement is stated rather than resolved. Anyone searching Paul Williams homes for sale should treat that discipline as the point: an unverified attribution is worth nothing, and a verified one is worth a great deal.

The career, in order

Williams was raised by a foster family in Los Angeles and educated at the Los Angeles School of Art and Design, at the local atelier of the Beaux-Arts Institute of Design, and at the University of Southern California, where he studied architectural engineering in the late 1910s. He was appointed to the first Los Angeles City Planning Commission in 1920, licensed as an architect in 1921, and worked in the office of John C. Austin before opening his own practice in 1923. That sequence matters: he was a planning commissioner before he was a principal, which helps explain how comfortably he moved between private commissions and public work for the rest of his life.

The practice built through the 1920s on residential work in the newly platted west-side tracts, expanded through the Depression on the strength of estate commissions, and took on federal and institutional work during and after the Second World War, including service as an architect for the United States Navy. The 1940s and 1950s were his broadest decade, with hotel work, commercial buildings, churches, housing and civic commissions running alongside a residential practice that never stopped. He ran a substantial office, employed and trained other architects, and wrote and lectured about small-house design with the same seriousness he brought to estates. He retired in 1973 and died in Los Angeles in January 1980, aged eighty-five.

Recognition arrived unevenly. He received an American Institute of Architects Award of Merit in 1939 for the MCA Building in Beverly Hills, the NAACP's Spingarn Medal in 1953 for distinguished achievement, a distinguished alumnus award from USC, and appointments to public bodies beginning with the first Los Angeles City Planning Commission in 1920. He was a familiar figure in the city's civic life for half a century. But the AIA's Gold Medal, its highest annual honour and the award that fixes an architect's standing in the national canon, came only in 2017, thirty-seven years after his death. For an architect whose buildings were never obscure, that lag is itself part of the record.

A practice without a house style

Williams is often described as an architect of English and Georgian revivals, which undersells him. The Banning residence he completed in Hancock Park in 1929 blends Tudor and English cottage vocabulary, and its large diamond-paned bay window does the work that half-timbering would have done elsewhere. The Jay Paley estate in Holmby Hills, commissioned in 1934 and finished in about 1936, is a twenty-room H-plan house in Georgian dress with thoroughly modern services, interiors by Harriet Shellenberger and landscape by Edward Huntsman-Trout. Same architect, same decade, two entirely different arguments about what a large California house should be.

His late work moves decisively. Founder's Church of Religious Science, completed in 1960 near Wilshire, is an elliptical reinforced-concrete sanctuary under a steel-framed dome roughly four storeys high, wrapped by a perforated concrete-block wall that encloses a garden, and designed to the congregation's specific request for a room without corners. His own house in Lafayette Square, built in 1952, is International Style: flat-roofed, horizontal, glazed. By the mid-1950s he was designing single-storey moderns for graded hillside pads, including a documented house in Trousdale Estates. The through-line across sixty years is not a style but a method: solve the site, flatter the client, and let the plan rather than the ornament carry the elegance.

That flexibility was also commercial strategy, and Williams was explicit about it. He wrote and lectured about designing for the small house as seriously as for the large one, published plan books aimed at ordinary buyers, and produced speculative and model designs alongside the estate commissions. It is one reason the body of work is so large. It is also one reason attribution is genuinely hard: a great deal of ordinary Los Angeles housing stock from the 1930s and 1940s carries details that came out of his published designs without having been drawn by his office. Influence and authorship are not the same thing, and in this city they are constantly confused.

Firsts, and what they cost

Williams became the first African American member of the American Institute of Architects in 1923 and, in 1957, the first African American elevated to the AIA College of Fellows, the distinction carried as FAIA. Both firsts are documented by the AIA itself and by the Los Angeles Conservancy. The 2017 Gold Medal made him the first African American recipient of that award as well. These are not decorative facts appended to a career, and they should not be read as such. They mark a profession that had, until him, been closed at every level, from apprenticeship through licensure to honorific membership, and a man who entered it anyway and then stayed for fifty years.

The working conditions are documented in his own words and in his practice. He perfected the ability to draw and letter upside down across a desk, so that clients who were uncomfortable sitting beside a Black man could read a sketch develop the right way up from the opposite side. He was hired to redesign parts of the Beverly Hills Hotel in the 1940s, including the 1949 Crescent Wing and the lettering that became the hotel's signature, at a time when, as the National Trust for Historic Preservation records, he could not have stayed there overnight or eaten by the pool.

Most consequential for a real-estate audience: Williams designed houses in neighbourhoods whose recorded deed covenants barred Black families from buying them. He remarked on the irony himself. Racially restrictive covenants were widespread across Los Angeles subdivisions from the 1910s onward and were rendered judicially unenforceable by the United States Supreme Court in Shelley v. Kraemer in 1948, though the language survived in title documents for decades afterwards. When Williams built his own house in 1952, he built it in Lafayette Square, a neighbourhood without those restrictions. It is now a Los Angeles Historic-Cultural Monument.

Where the work is concentrated

For residential work, the densest documented concentrations are in Hancock Park and Windsor Square, where he was building from the early 1920s; in Holmby Hills and Bel-Air, where the large estate commissions of the 1930s cluster; and in Beverly Hills, including the Flats and the streets above. The Paul R. Williams Project records a Sinatra residence on Bowmont Drive in Trousdale Estates, newly completed by September 1956 and demolished in 2006, with colour consultation by his daughter Norma Williams Harvey. Lafayette Square and View Park, on the historically Black west side, hold his own house and a body of other work.

Hancock Park and Windsor Square are the most rewarding places to look, and the reasons are practical. The houses are visible from the street rather than hidden behind hedges and gates; the neighbourhoods retain their 1920s fabric largely intact; and local preservation groups and the Larchmont-area press have documented the Williams presence there in some detail over the years. Both areas sit within or adjacent to Historic Preservation Overlay Zone protections, which means exterior alterations are reviewed by a board and the paper record of what has been changed is comparatively complete. For anyone trying to establish provenance, that combination of visibility and documentation is worth a great deal.

A caution about the hills. Attributions to Williams appear frequently in listings across the Hollywood Hills, Beverly Hills, Bel-Air and the canyons, and the frequency of the claim far exceeds anything supported by the documented record. Some are correct and can be traced. Many trace only to a previous listing, which traced to the listing before that, which traced to a seller's recollection. The archive now exists, it is held at the Getty and USC, and the Paul R. Williams Project publishes researched project pages. That changes what a serious buyer should expect from a seller, and what a responsible agent should be willing to put in writing.

Civic, commercial and community work

The 28th Street YMCA of 1926 in South Los Angeles is the earliest of his major community buildings still standing: a Spanish Colonial Revival complex with bas-relief portraits of Booker T. Washington and Frederick Douglass on the facade, designated a Los Angeles Historic-Cultural Monument in 2006 and listed on the National Register in 2009. It has since been converted to affordable housing. The Golden State Mutual Life Insurance Building on West Adams, completed in 1948 or 1949 depending on the source, was headquarters to one of the largest Black-owned businesses in the western United States, and its lobby murals narrate Black California history.

In commercial work he designed the MCA Building in Beverly Hills, which won him the AIA Award of Merit in 1939 and now houses a talent agency, and Saks Fifth Avenue on Wilshire Boulevard in Beverly Hills, completed in the late 1930s with Parkinson & Parkinson and still anchoring that stretch of the street. He designed the Al Jolson memorial and fountain at Hillside Memorial Park in Culver City, where Jolson was interred in 1951; it is a cemetery, and it is open to visitors. He was a partner in the firm that designed the Los Angeles County courthouse now named for Stanley Mosk, completed in 1958, one of the largest public buildings of its decade in the county.

One frequently repeated attribution deserves care. Williams was part of the joint-venture team that planned and designed Los Angeles International Airport around 1960 and 1961, and he is credited by the AIA, the Getty and the Conservancy with participation in the Theme Building, the parabolic-arched structure at the centre of the airport. Whether he authored its form, as is very often asserted in popular accounts, is contested; the design has also been credited to James Langenheim of Pereira & Luckman. The defensible statement is that he was on the design team for a joint-venture commission, and that is the statement used here rather than the more flattering one.

The archive, and how an attribution gets settled

A persistent story holds that Williams's drawings were destroyed in the 1992 Los Angeles civil unrest. The Getty has corrected it publicly. Primarily business records were lost; the bulk of the archive was stored elsewhere and survived in good condition. In 2020 the Getty Research Institute and the USC School of Architecture jointly acquired it from his granddaughter, Karen Elyse Hudson, who had preserved it for decades. It comprises roughly 35,000 plans, some 10,000 original drawings, blueprints and diazotypes, hand-coloured renderings, vintage photographs and correspondence, covering the majority of his commissioned work including projects never built.

In practice this means a Williams attribution is now checkable, which was not true a generation ago. The Paul R. Williams Project maintains researched project pages with addresses, clients, contractors, construction costs and dates. Los Angeles Department of Building and Safety permit records name the architect of record on original construction and on subsequent alterations. Historic-Cultural Monument nominations and National Register documentation carry architectural histories prepared by qualified consultants and reviewed by a commission. Between them, those sources will confirm or fail to confirm most claims. Where all of them are silent, an attribution should be described as unverified rather than asserted, and that distinction should survive into the marketing copy.

This matters commercially as well as historically. A documented Williams house is a different asset from a house said to be by Williams. The first is supported by an archive held at two of the most serious research institutions in the country, and can be relied on by an appraiser, a lender, a preservation board and the next buyer in turn. The second is a claim that evaporates the moment anyone checks. Anyone marketing or buying a Paul R Williams architect Los Angeles property should be able to say plainly which of the two they have, and should expect to be asked. The premium attaches to the documentation, not to the story.

Living in a Williams house

Most Williams houses are private homes, occupied by families, and should be treated as such; several sit on quiet residential streets that do not accommodate visitors. Several of his public and institutional buildings, however, can be seen properly and at leisure: Founder's Church of Religious Science, the Beverly Hills Hotel, the Stanley Mosk Courthouse, Hillside Memorial Park, and the exteriors of the 28th Street YMCA and the Golden State Mutual Life Insurance Building, where a plaza added in 2015 commemorates both the company and the architect. The Beverly Hills Hotel maintains a suite named for him. That is the responsible way to experience the work at first hand.

For owners, the practical issues are the ordinary ones of interwar and midcentury construction handled with unusual care. Original steel casements and leaded glazing are expensive to restore and worse to replace. Plaster detail, cornices and mouldings can be replicated but rarely cheaply. Stair joinery is often the single most valuable element in the house. Service wings were laid out for a domestic staff that no longer exists and usually need rethinking. Kitchens and bathrooms have almost always been rebuilt at least twice already, which is where the opportunity is. Reversibility is the standard to aim for throughout: the houses tolerate intelligent modernisation and punish the removal of their proportions.

If a property sits inside a Historic Preservation Overlay Zone, as many of the Hancock Park and Windsor Square houses do, exterior work will be reviewed by a board and some changes will be refused. That is a constraint, and it is also a protection; it is one of the reasons the Williams stock in those neighbourhoods has survived in better condition than comparable work in the hills, where there is no equivalent oversight and where demolition has been routine. Buy for the plan rather than the finishes, restore rather than replace where the original survives, and keep every piece of paper. The next owner will want all of it.

Selected works

  • Leistikow Residence, Windsor Square, 1923 — an early Tudor commission documented by the National Trust, showing the office's command of English revival at its outset.
  • 28th Street YMCA, South Los Angeles, 1926 — a community landmark with Douglass and Washington reliefs; HCM in 2006, National Register in 2009, now affordable housing.
  • Banning Residence, Hancock Park, 1929 — a Tudor and English cottage hybrid that helped shift the neighbourhood away from Mediterranean revival.
  • Jay Paley Residence, Holmby Hills, commissioned 1934 and completed about 1936 — a twenty-room Georgian estate with distinctly modern interiors and services.
  • Saks Fifth Avenue, Beverly Hills, late 1930s — designed with Parkinson & Parkinson, and still the anchor of Wilshire Boulevard retail.
  • MCA Building, Beverly Hills, 1939 — the commission that won Williams the AIA Award of Merit.
  • Golden State Mutual Life Insurance Building, West Adams, 1948 or 1949 depending on source — headquarters of a major Black-owned insurer, with murals of Black California history.
  • Beverly Hills Hotel Crescent Wing, Beverly Hills, 1949 — the addition that fixed the hotel's image, along with the script signage drawn from his handwriting.
  • Paul R. Williams Residence, Lafayette Square, 1952 — his own International Style house, in a neighbourhood without racial covenants; a Historic-Cultural Monument.
  • Founder's Church of Religious Science, Wilshire district, 1960 — an elliptical concrete sanctuary under a steel dome, built to a brief for a room with no corners.

Common Questions

Who was Paul R. Williams?
Paul Revere Williams (1894-1980) was a Los Angeles architect who practised for roughly five decades and was involved in close to three thousand projects. He designed estates for film stars and industrialists, public housing, churches, a courthouse, hotel wings, an insurance headquarters and a YMCA. He was the first African American member of the American Institute of Architects and the first African American Fellow, and he received the AIA Gold Medal posthumously in 2017. His archive is now held jointly by the Getty Research Institute and USC.
Was Paul R. Williams the first Black member of the AIA?
Yes. Williams joined the American Institute of Architects in 1923 as its first African American member, and in 1957 became the first African American elevated to the AIA College of Fellows, the FAIA designation. Both facts are documented by the AIA and by the Los Angeles Conservancy. In 2017 the AIA awarded him its Gold Medal, its highest annual honour, making him the first African American recipient; the award came thirty-seven years after his death.
How do I verify that a house was designed by Paul Williams?
Start with the Paul R. Williams Project, which maintains researched project pages with clients, costs and dates. Then check Los Angeles Department of Building and Safety permit records, which name the architect of record on original construction. Historic-Cultural Monument nominations and National Register documentation carry vetted architectural histories. Since 2020 the archive itself, roughly 35,000 plans and 10,000 original drawings, has been held by the Getty Research Institute and USC. If none of those sources supports the claim, treat it as unverified.
Which Los Angeles neighbourhoods have Paul Williams homes?
The documented residential concentrations are Hancock Park and Windsor Square from the early 1920s onward, Holmby Hills and Bel-Air for the large 1930s estates, Beverly Hills including the Flats, and Lafayette Square and View Park on the historically Black west side, where he built his own house in 1952. A Williams house in Trousdale Estates, built for Frank Sinatra and completed by 1956, is documented but was demolished in 2006. Attributions in the Hollywood Hills circulate far more often than they can be substantiated.
Did Paul Williams really learn to draw upside down?
Yes, and the reason is documented rather than anecdotal. Working in 1920s and 1930s Los Angeles, Williams found that some white clients were uncomfortable sitting beside a Black man to review drawings. He taught himself to sketch and letter in reverse so that he could sit across the desk and the client could watch a design appear the right way up. It is remembered as a charming professional trick; it was in fact an accommodation to the conditions he was required to work under.
Can you visit a Paul R. Williams building?
Several, yes. Founder's Church of Religious Science, the Beverly Hills Hotel, the Stanley Mosk Courthouse and Hillside Memorial Park are all accessible, and the exteriors of the 28th Street YMCA and the Golden State Mutual Life Insurance Building can be seen from the street. His residential work is almost entirely privately owned and occupied, and should not be approached. Occasional preservation-organisation tours open individual houses; those are the appropriate way to see a Williams interior.

Attributions on this page are drawn from published archives, preservation records and landmark documentation, and provenance should be independently verified for any specific property before it is relied upon.

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